The Curious Case of Filipino Rice Porridge

Many are the faces of the humble rice porridge. With a base made of household ingredients such as rice, salt, and stock, the rice porridge’s characteristic gentle flavour and texture have made it an indisputable comfort dish for generations around the world. 

Perhaps the most popular is congee, a simple porridge that traces its roots back to the Chinese Zhou Dynasty (circa 1000 BCE). Today, congee is mainly eaten for breakfast along with a hodgepodge of toppings like pork floss, crispy wonton skins, fresh green onions, and even a century egg if you’re a fan of funky flavours. 

In Korea, there’s juk, which — depending on the grandmother you talk to — can be cooked in over 40 ways. While some prefer to use the more traditional method of boiling uncooked rice grains in a big pot of anchovy stock, some cut down the cooking time by using already-cooked rice. It is then garnished with add-ons such as dried seaweed, sesame seeds, soy sauce, and a generous drizzle of toasted sesame oil. 

The Philippines, however, prides itself in its arroz caldo, which flaunts a distinctive yellow starchy broth that’s made with glutinous rice and whole chicken and infused with aromatics like ginger, onions, and garlic. It’s said that the gruel was one of the many dishes born during the country’s 300-year Spanish colonial rule — in fact, the name “arroz caldo” literally translates to “rice broth” in Spanish. 

A pinch of safflower, a mild spice that resembles saffron, gives the arroz caldo its sunny tinge. Seasoned with fish sauce and freshly-cracked pepper, the finished dish is brightened and balanced by a squeeze of calamansi, a citrus that’s native to the tropical country. For extra texture, crunchy fried garlic bits, freshly-chopped spring onions, and sliced hard-boiled egg are commonly added.

Rice grows abundantly in the Philippines, making it a staple starch in many Filipino homes. Based on a study by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, it said that the Philippines ranked eighth in world rice production in 2018. But what makes rice porridge stand out in Filipino cuisine is there’s a version for whatever craving or time of the day, from breakfast down to the sugary last course — arroz caldo, typically had as a mid-day meal, is only one of them.